Mitered Madness using Tunisian Crochet
As I was designing my latest pattern, (can’t wait to show you!!) I realized the awesome value these mitered squares can bring to your crochet work, so I thought a complete tutorial was due for these lovely squares. In this Side Stitches post I will go over how to crochet the Mitered square using the Tunisian crochet stitch, how to make them any size, as well as some cool color changing effects, and best of all you can turn these practice pieces into something useful. Building the Tunisian Mitered square is quite simple, I hope you enjoy making these beauties as much as I did.
You can use any yarn and Afghan or Tunisian hook size, for this tutorial I used;
- Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton
- Snap Pea
- Hot Pepper
- 5.0mm Tunisian Hook
- Tapestry Needle
SS – Slip Stitch
- Tunisian crochet may curl, most of it will even out but blocking can help your overall appearance.
- This post contains affiliated links, thank you for your support.
Building the Basic Square (in any size):
To begin, lets take a look at a mitered square.
Notice how all sides has the same amount of stitches, and notice the direction they are worked, creating that diagonal line.
Ok so now we know what they are supposed to look like, lets dive in. We will start out small making this square with 5 stitches on each side, to do this we will need to start out with a CH11. To calculate the starting chain for this square you first need to determine how many stitches you want on each side, I want 5. Take your number and multiple it by 2, that makes 10, add 1 for a turning CH, that makes 11.
Working in the back hump only of the chain, begin your forward pass using a TSS;
Insert hook in the second stitch from hook like so.
Yarn over and pull up a loop,
Insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop.
Continue to insert hook and pull up a loop (or a forward pass in TSS) in each CH space, you should end with a total of 11 loops on your hook, this number should always match your original CH number. This means you pulled up a loop 10 times, the 11th loops is the turning CH made.
Begin your return pass just like in TSS, CH1. (or a yarn over and pull through one loop.)
Yarn over and pull through two loops,
Continue to yarn over and pull through two loops until you have one loop left on your hook. In this scenario you would have pulled through two loops 10 times.
Ok that’s just like doing a row of TSS, nothing special right. The next rows will be what forms this into a mitered square. If we go back to our chain count for a moment, we wanted 5 stitches on each side of our square, so we made a CH11, this will give us 5 stitches on each side (brings us to 10) and the extra stitch will be the center stitch or decreasing stitch. Each row will be decreased by two stitches, or one stitch on each side, the first row gives us our 5 stitches,t he second row will have 4 stitches and so on. Lets begin;
Insert hook and pull up a loops 3 times, leaving you with a total of 4 loops on the hook, this should always be one less for each row, keeping in mind the first row builds your initial stitch count.
Now we begin reducing the stitches, to do this we will perform a Tunisian Simple Stitch 3 Together or TSS3Tog, this is where we crochet 3 stitches together. Insert your hook under the next 3 stitches,
Yarn over and pull through all three stitches, this completes a TSS3.
Now you have 4 stitches on one side and your center stitch, now you need 4 stitches on your other side, insert hook into the next 3 vertical bars and pull up a loop, insert hook in the CH space at the end of the row and pull up a loop, you should have a total of 9 loops on your hook.
Complete the return pass (CH1, *yarn over and pull through two loops* until the end).
We just keep going in this manner, reducing each row by 2 stitches, until we run out of rows, or make a total of 5 forward and return passes.
When you complete your last row, insert your hook into the CH space at the end of the last row and complete a SS.
That covers an in detail look of how to create the Tunisian mitered, this is the same method used for any size. Here’s a list of some simple things to help:
- Always Chain an odd amount.
- When determining how many stitches for each side that the number you want for one side multiple by 2 and add 1 for your starting chain count.
- Always decrease your center 3 stitches only.
- Your rows reduce by two stitches in each pass.
- When decreasing you will take the stitch before the center stitch, the center stitch, and the stitch after.
Here are a few other sizes and their chain counts:
Color Changing Combos:
I think we have the basic square covered and how to make any size, if not please let me know.
By changing up your colors in a few simple ways you can create some very fun designs. The square itself is pretty much worked the same when determining your starting stitches and how the rows are worked. I will add in a few color changes techniques for you to add some zazzz to your squares.
Lets Begin with this window looking square:
This square has 20 stitches on 2 sides, and has a color change half way through the square, great, more math.
I began with a CH 41, and worked 10 rows in LB Cayenne.
Before you complete your final pass through two loops on row 10, change to Snap Pea and pull through final loops.
With your second yarn color complete your square rows 11-20.
This is the simplest color changing technique, you work this square just like the basic and the only thing different you need to remember is to swap yarn colors half way through.
By working with two colors you can achieve this triangle square;
This square also has 20 stitches on each side so to begin I changed 41 in Hot Pepper. Start your forward pass with color A until you have 21 loops on your hook. Why 21? Well you want to work each color half way through, keeping in mind that extra stitch. So color A will work the 20 stitches plus the center stitch, color B will work out the remaining stitches.
Insert your hook in the next stitch and yarn over with color B, pull up a loop. Do not fasten off color A just drop it and begin working with color B.
Continue to work the forward pass (insert hook into CH and pull up a loop) in color B until the end.
Now begin your return pass, first in color B, CH1, *yarn over and pull through two loops* until you have one color of color B left on hook.
Drop color B and pick up color A and finish working your return pass.
Now we begin to shape the square and reduce our stitches. Just like the basic we will complete a TSS3 in the center, start your forward pass in Color A until you have 19 (one less the previous row) loops on hook.
Complete the TSS3Tog, insert hook under next 3 vertical bars (two of them should be in color A and one in color B), and pull up a loop in color A.
Drop Color A and finish your forward pass in Color B.
CH1, *yarn over and pull through two loops* until you have one loop left in color B, drop color B and work your remaining return pass in color A.
Continue to work your mitered square switching colors at the mid-point. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Lets do a checkered pattern. I’m doing a swatch with 14 stitches on each side. When doing the checkered pattern you must keep the stitches for each side and even number, this is so your checkers are all even. So for example you could not do this square with a 5 stitched square because you can’t break out five evenly right, at least last I checked you couldn’t. You will also need a bobbin in color A or you can drag your ends along the back side, depending on what you are making.
With color A (Cayenne) begin with a CH 29 (14 stitches for each side plus 1).
Start your forward pass in color A, until you have 7 loops on hook (why 7? 14 stitches for each side, break that side up into two, that’s 7, so each checker is 7 stitches.), drop color A and continue forward pass with color B until you have 15, color B stitches on your hook, drop B and finish your forward pass with A.
Complete your return pass remembering to change colors.
Begin working your second rows’ forward pass. Color A will remain the same loop count until you have reached the halfway point, in this case I will have 7 rows, with 7 loops of color A on each end. Your TSS3Tog or decrease happens in color B only.
Change to color B on your final pull through from row 7. Once half of your rows (or 7 in this case) are complete, fasten off all of color A.
Finish your square in color B.
Make something great:
These simple color designs can be turned into anything. Here’s what I did with this sampling;
Combine designs to make something spectacular, more on this later…
How have you used the Mitered square? Send me an email or your photos of how you worked your squares, and I’ll share in my next newsletter. Please let me know if you have any issues with these instructions, I hope your squares are fun and make you smile!